Spackle and Tape

Spackle consists of water, dolomite, limestone, perlite, mica, pyroohvlitte and polymers. It’s called “mud” in the trade and it comes in 12 or 48 pound boxes or 61 pounds in a 5 gallon bucket. The larger size is convenient because the spackle can be mixed in the bucket. Also 5 gallon buckets are excellent for many other projects for the home.

Tools needed are an assortment of spackle knives in 4, 8 and 12 inch widths along with an inside corner tool. Some contractors use an outside corner tool for curved archways.

Spackle comes in “all purpose” and “topping”. Topping is finer and is most often used for the final coat.

For mixing, an electric drill and a mixing paddle does nicely. Use caution not to use too much water which will make the spackle runny. Spackle should be the consistency of nut butter – the smooth kind.

After mixing, some contractors add just enough water to cover the top of the spackle. This “lid” as it’s called , stops the spackle from drying out as a barrier is created between the spackle and the surrounding air.

Begin by filling all screw and nail holes. A 4 inch knife is best to smear a bit of spackle over the holes. The object is to fill the hole and remove the excess spackle in one swipe. Nail and screw holes need two fillings. Let the first dry before giving a second coat.

Use an 8 or 10 inch broad knife for long, horizontal joints. You’ll need a heavy coat of spackle over the tape, filling the depression between the drywall. Three coats are needed for long joints. The first uses the most spackle. The second levels the joint. The third should make the edges of the joint invisible. The third requires a 12 inch broad knife. It’s most important to make sure that each coat dries thoroughly.

Three coats are required for outside corners. The first fills the space between the corner bead and the wall. An 8 inch knife is best for this coat. Have one edge of the knife ride on the corner bead while the other edge rides over the drywall. After drying, apply a second, lighter coat. A 10 inch knife is best for this coat. For the final coat, use a 12 inch broad knife on the edges.

Inside corners are the most difficult. Start with a coat of spackle to the inside corner (use an 8 inch spackle knife.). Afterward use an inside corner tool to apply the spackle into the corner and make it square. Using long strokes of the tool will help to create a perfect inside corner. For best results wet the inside corner tool with a little water before each pass and keep your tool as clean as possible.

After the first coat has dried, apply another coat to both sides of the inside corner. Most often the inside corner will be done with the first pass of the corner tool. The second and third coats finish the edges of the joint outward from the inside corner.

For any spackling jobs it’s essential to allow each coat to dry thoroughly between applications of more spackle. Use a heater to speed the drying in cold weather. If a joint is gray it’s not dry enough. White means it is dry.

If you see raised edges on joints and screw holes as they dry, remove them before applying any more coats. Just use the edges of a clean spackle knife. A damp sponge will also work. To smooth and flatten a dried spackle joint before applying any more coats use a sanding pole. When sanding use a respirator to avoid inhaling sanding dust.

After the third and final coat has dried study your work closely and lightly sand if it’s required. Occasionally, more spackle may be needed. If you can spot the edges of a joint you’re not finished.

If you’re painting, you’ll need a coat of drywall sealer or primer first. Next apply two coats of paint. Most contractors prime newly installed drywall prior to hanging wallpaper too.

Later, if patching is needed (i.e. the common door knob hole) use fiberglass tape and spackle. To blend the patch in with the wall spackle 8 to 10 inches from the hole feathering the edges.

TAPE:

In the past, drywall joints were finished with paper tape. Nowadays most contractors use fiberglass mesh tape. Mesh is stronger than paper tape and self sticking. Just cover all joints with tape and then spackle.

In addition to fiberglass mesh tape outside corners have special needs. Outside corners are prone to damage so they’re covered with “corner bead” before spackling. Corner bead comes in metal and plastic. Each are made in square and rounded corner bead. Cut to length, hang with drywall screws and then cover the corner bead joint with fiberglass tape.

When placing fiberglass mesh tape into inside corner, a spackle knife is useful to press the tape firmly into the corner. Tape that’s been installed properly will lie flat on the two inside corner surfaces.

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