New Jersey Drywall

It wasn't long ago that walls were sheathed with lath and plaster. Cutting or drilling plaster walls creates voluminous noxious airborne dust. Then United States Gypsum discovered drywall. In fact their brand name for drywall (Sheetrock) is so popular many people are unaware there are other brands available.

The most difficult part of drywalling is putting the sheets properly in place. This is especially trying on the ceiling. Not to worry. Most mistakes can be covered up with the plastering over of the wallboards which contractors call "mudding".

When remodeling, as long as firing strips are installed first, drywall can be installed over any flat surface. This includes existing wall coverings and cinder block and masonry walls. There's standard drywall, waterproof and bulletproof drywall. Available thicknesses are 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch and 5/8 inch.

The most common size or standard is a 4 by 8 foot sheets. Also available are 4 by 10, 4 by 12 and 4 by 14 feet. The slightly tapered long edges on all drywall are to help with the finishing process.

One of the pluses of drywall is that it can be hung with inexpensive, common tools. These include measuring tape, utility knife, chalk line, inside corner tool, various broad knives, key hole saw, sponge, spackle tray, tin snips, sanding pole, Surform Tool and drill.

A key to professional drywalling is installing over flat walls, which means the framing must be true. Rafters or studs that have a cup or bow must be made flat. Use a hand-held planer for bowing and shims for cupped framing. To measure how true your walls are before drywalling, use a string. Stretch the string across the wall in a few places to determine if all studs are on the same plane. If not you'll have a problem. Also make sure all end points are supported. Ocassionaly an extra stud has to be added, especially for inside corners.

Drywall can be attached to studs with drywall nails. However, drywall screws or "grabbers" are far better. Nails will, in time, pull away from the studs resulting in ceiling sags and cracks and holes in the spackle. Use 15/8 inch screws for 1/2 inch drywall and use 2 inch screws for 5/8 inch drywall. Use 5/8 inch screws for 1/2 inch drywall.

While drywalling a whole room start by installing panels on the ceiling first. Then install the bottom panels on the walls. Finally, install the top wall panels. This way the bottom panels will hold the top up for fastening. In addition, the top wall panel will help support the edges of the ceiling panels.

When driving screws, run them first below the face of the drywall while not breaking through the surface paper. The holes will be filled with spackle later during the finishing process. Contractors use a drywall screw gun because it's faster and sets each screw at a predetermined depth. Keep a few extra Phillips head or square drive bits on hand because in time these tips will break or become rounded.

In any drywall job, panels will have to be cut. Most cuts are across a panel. Use a drywall T-square and pencil or chalk line to mark the panel prior to cutting. A utility knife is best to make a cut. You don't have to cut entirely through the panel only through the surface paper. After the cut, lift the panel and "break it" along the cut line. Then cut the back paper to complete the cut.

Once in a while the edge of a cut will be rough. To smooth the edge of the panel for a good fit use a Surform Tool or "rasp."

Use a utility knife to make electrical outlet box cuts. First measure and outline the cut, then cut the outline of the box through the surface paper. Then make an X cut from one corner to the next on a diagonal. Next press the center of the X cut followed by cutting the back paper.

Another option for making cuts for electrical boxes is with a key hole or drywall saw. First mark the location of the electrical box and puncture the face of the drywall with the saw and cut out. This way is faster than using a utility knife, but creates a lot more drywall dust.

The easiest method to make electrical outlet box cuts is with a spiral saw, bearing a special drywall cutting bit. In this manner an accurate cut can be made in less than a minute. Again, the problem is the greater amount of dust generated.

After all of the drywall is fastened well to the studs and ceiling joists make certain that all screws are driven below the surface. This is essential for correct finishing. It's much harder to do this later when spackling.

We are avaialble for all of your drywall needs in New Jersey. We are open and working 7 days a week. Call us or fill out the contact form today!