How to Install Base Moulding

The typical base moulding consists of 3 pieces: a 1x4 nailed to the wall, a piece of base cap moulding nailed to the 1x4 and a piece of quarter round (shoe moulding) nailed to the 1x4. Some older houses have a 1x6 or 1x8 nailed to the wall. The 1x4 is standard.

The other kind of base moulding is what appears to be a 1x6 that’s been milled to what looks like two pieces of the three piece moulding. This moulding is easier to hang but doesn’t have the distinct shadow lines of the three piece moulding.

Using the same moulding that’s in the rest of your home will give you a more pleasingly consistent look,

First check whether you have inside or outside joints. Install the 1x4 moulding first, cap moulding next and shoe (quarter round) last. Measure your walls for the 1x4 and cut the boards to length. Mark your boards on the side that’s towards the wall. For inside corners use butt joints – 45 degree miter cuts are good. Outside corners should be mitered at 45 degree angles. For runs longer than your longest board be certain to use a scarf joint. Then miter the board ends to 45 degrees. The overlap will help disguise any gaps that may come about when the trim expands and contracts.

Make sure to prime the trim before installing it. It’s vital that you use the right primer for the type of paint you’re using. If the 1x4’s have knots or sap pockets they’ll work their way through the paint if you don’t paint them. After the primer dries, fasten the trim to the wall. The 1x4’s are fastened to the wall by nailing the trim into the studs behind the wall. Use a stud finder and 2 inch 8x10 penny finishing nails. Be certain you use a nail set to drive the nail heads below the boards’ surface.

Next install the cap moulding. Cut the moulding to length for the first wall and nail it to the 1x4 and, according to how straight the wall is, to the wall. If the first corner is an inside one, the first cut on the second wall should be at a 45 degree angle. Make your cut so that it slants toward the middle of the front. With a coping saw cut perpendicular to the face of the cap moulding along the line between the angle and the face. When the joint is good cut the other end to length and nail the cap moulding in place. For corners that are outside corners, miter the ends at 45 degrees. Proceed around the room using the same method. Four penny finishing nails are good for this. Be careful to set all the nails.

Next fill in the holes and cracks. If you’re painting the moulding use latex painters caulk to fill the cracks between the moulding and the wall, and putty to fill the nail holes. If need be, you can use the caulk to fill in the nail holes. After the caulk is in place run a damp sponge along the joint for smoothing and removing the caulk.

When using a clear finish on the shoe or quarter round, paint the moulding already on the wall now. Mask off the wall and use an interior latex semi-gloss to paint the moulding already on the wall. Choose whatever but be certain that it’s compatible with the primer you used. Stain and finish while the paint is drying. It’s a good idea to use a natural shade of oil based stain followed by a coat of oil-based polyurethane. To match existing moulding, experiment on a smaller piece until you get the color right.

When the finish is dry nail the shoe moulding in place. For this 1 ½ “ 4 penny finishing nails are best. For hardwood drill holes in the moulding so you don’t split the wood. It’s best to drill holes that are a little smaller than the nails.

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